2023 The Cote Shiraz
2023 The Cote Shiraz
This single-vineyard wine is from the steep slope of the historic "Cote d'Or" vineyard in Central Pokolbin. Perfectly medium-bodied with dark fruit, Turkish delight, and spicy notes. The subtle French oak maturation provides perfectly balanced structural complexity.
After a few challenging vintages for this vineyard, the outstanding 2023 vintage has provided the best Cote Shiraz we've seen since 2019.
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Winemaking Overview
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In the Vineyard
A single vineyard wine sourced from the famous, and slightly controversially named, Cote d’Or vineyard in central Pokolbin. The vineyard lies at almost 200 metres above sea level, on a steep northerly aspect of the ridge directly south of the Audrey Wilkinson Oakdale property. Cote d'Or was one of the first vineyards established by the Wilkinson family in 1866 by Alfred Wilkinson and his son Frederick (Audrey’s father). It was the fraternal home until the death of Alfred just before WW1. The original vineyard has long been pulled out, but seven acres were replanted on this ridge in 1971. The vineyard is dry-grown on relatively deep brown loamy soil, and scattered with Permian fossils.
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In the Winery
The excellent 2023 vintage has certainly demonstrated the resilience of this site to produce great wine. The vineyard was hit with a nasty hailstorm in early January, and we had virtually written it off.
Towards the very end of the vintage, we went back for a final look and realised there was still some great-looking fruit that had ripened quite nicely. We decided to selectively hand-pick on March 3rd.
Destemmed (but not crushed) and then cold-soaked for 24 hours. After a further six days of fermentation on skins, the wine was pressed off into a combination of second, third, and fourth use barrels, which have provided a very subtle oak structural complexity to the wine.
Bottled - 25th June 2024
Production - 144 dozen
Released - 17th May 202513.5% ABV

94 Points - Wine Front
"Cracking shiraz. So distinctive. Spicy, earthen, meaty and floral, but juicy with cherry-plum fruit flavour too. Silken to the touch but energetic. Laced with gun-smoke and cedar-smoke. Cardamon notes as well. Lots going on but in a seamless, svelte context. Finesse of the tannin and general length are also top notch. This is very, very good."
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94/100 - Q Wine Reviews
"So pretty and easily the most aromatically expressive Shiraz in the Thomas Wines range, the fruit is sourced from the famed Cote d'Or vineyard located just near the Audrey Wilkinson cellar door. Originally planted in the 1860s, the vineyard was pulled out and replanted in 1971. Grown on chocolatey brown soils, the vineyard is on a steep north-facing site that is handpicked. Intoxicating aromas flood the nose. Think dried red and purple flowers, violets and Turkish delight. A bevvy of red fruits and plums glide through flanked by fine spices and some meatiness. The tannin detail is a perfect bookend to this excellent expression of medium bodied Shiraz. Drinking well now, this will age comfortably beyond the medium term. Great stuff!"
View SourceTasting Notes
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Appearance & Aroma
There is an attractive, bright glossy purple colour
and a nose of sweet red/dark berries and fruits with hints of pink peppercorn, herbs, and nori seaweed.
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Palate & Finish
On the palate, the wine is classically medium-bodied with nice intensity of blackberry, wild dark cherry and mulberry fruit alongside notes of graphite, dried herbs and exotic spice.
Excellent length to the palate with a moreish silky texture of fine-grained tannin and subtle woven acidity. The finish is long and fresh with a composed elegance.
WHEN TO DRINK
This wine is drinking deliciously now, but you will be rewarded for giving it medium-term cellaring.

The Vineyards
Whilst I have always applied a no compromise, attention to detail approach to my winemaking, I truly believe that 90% of the quality lies in the vineyard. The key to great wine is ‘keeping it simple’ to preserve that potential quality from the vine through to the bottle - Andrew Thomas